Not all racing bikes are the same. Every season brings new variants, whether gravel, bike-packing or aero racers. And then also in various price classes, from entry-level models to high-end professional bikes. In this report, we will take a closer look at the differences between entry-level road bikes and professional models.
The buying decision
Entry-level road bikes are usually less expensive and designed for riders who are just starting out in road cycling. These bikes are often made of aluminium and have simpler components than their more expensive counterparts. Entry-level road bikes usually have a more upright riding position than professional models, which is more comfortable and less stressful for beginners. Most entry-level road bikes also have lighter gearing to make it easier for riders to ride on steep climbs and longer distances.
The quality of the frames and components available on the market today is so high that the boundaries are becoming increasingly blurred. You could say that the 80/20 rule applies. The entry-level class provides the basis for 80% of the possibilities, the remaining 20% has to be bought at a high price.
The decision to buy depends on the budget, of course, but also on the class of racing bike and the application. I am a big fan of so-called all-road bikes – i.e. road bikes that can also be used off-road but are not classic gravel bikes. So first of all, clarify where and how I want to ride and what budget is available to me.
The components that matter
A road bike or gravel bike basically consists of the following components:
- The frame (material mostly steel, carbon or aluminium)
- Shift & brake group (usually from one of the three manufacturers: Shimano, SRAM or Campagnolo)
- Wheels (rims made of either aluminium or carbon)
- Attachments such as handlebars, seat post, saddle etc. (steel or carbon)
Each individual component can now be either expensive or cheap, heavy or light, soft or stiff (and have other properties that differ). The material from which the individual component is made is decisive. As a general rule:
- Carbon: light, stiff and expensive
- Steel: heavy, relatively soft (depending on the application) and medium price segment
- Aluminium: medium weight, extremely stiff and relatively cheap
For this reason, one can generally say that entry-level bikes tend to be made of aluminium and professional racing bikes of carbon. It is also important to know that this is mainly about saving weight, but not only. Carbon has many more good and positive properties. For example, carbon can be constructed in such a way that it behaves differently when force is applied in different directions. This in turn has to do with comfort when riding.
Road bike types and variants
Apart from the basic differentiation between road bikes and gravel bikes, there are still big differences within each class. In the road bike sector, we often talk about endurance bikes vs. race bikes or aero road bikes. Endurance bikes are built for long rides and are therefore the most comfortable to ride. This has to do with the dimensions of the individual tubes in the frame. These dimensions in their entirety are called geometry. And to make these geometries of different bicycle frames comparable, there are 2 values:
- Stack: the height of the bicycle or handlebars, so to speak. The higher the height, the more relaxed you sit on the bike.
- Reach: the length of the bicycle. In this case, the shorter the bike, the more relaxed the riding position.
Unfortunately, the relaxed seating position also comes with a disadvantage: you don’t really sit aerodynamically on the bike and therefore have disadvantages in performance.
Sidestep AERO: Physically, air resistance is the element to be overcome when cycling. The rolling resistance of the tyres is almost negligible. This is why AERO bikes are actually faster than endurance bikes, because the effort required to ride (fast) is lower. The effect is greater the faster you go. This is why slipstreaming is so essential when riding in a group.
Sidestep WEIGHT: Weight reduction (correctly mass reduction) is a major cost driver in bicycle design. Therefore, the lighter the more expensive, one can generally say. The greatest effects of the bike’s weight are of course noticeable on the climbs. The acceleration values are also better on lighter road bikes, especially with lighter wheels. How much money you want to invest in weight reduction is certainly a personal decision. However, values around 8 kg total weight are very good.
The top 5 beginner road bike upgrades
Which parts are the best upgrades on entry-level racing bikes? The answer to this question is relatively easy to formulate, as the cost/benefit ratio is also a suitable criterion here.
- Tubes! A standard butyl inner tube is a relatively heavy and thick black bicycle tube with average running properties. These tubes are cheap and durable and are therefore often used by manufacturers. The simplest upgrade in this case is a latex inner tube. Depending on the manufacturer, these are usually pink or red and have many better running properties. Cost 10-20 Euros. If the wheels are tubeless-compatible (and only then!) you can do without tubes altogether and seal the tyres directly on the rims (this requires a special valve adapter and sealing milk).
- Tyres: Just as important as the tubes are of course the tyres – there are big differences in price but also in rolling behaviour. Entry-level bikes are often fitted with rather average tyres, so an upgrade is almost always worthwhile. Another advantage of upgrading is the fact that you can also change the tyre width to your personal taste (within the possibilities of the frame). The rule is: the wider the more comfortable but also the less aero. If you want to know exactly what the rolling resistance is like, check out bicyclerollingresistance.com.
- Points of contact: The topics of comfort while riding and endurance are closely linked. The more comfortable the road bike, the longer the ride can be. And that is why the contact points of the body and the road bike are so important. An extremely stiff and hard seat post is not much fun, but if the seat post has the right flex it feels much better. The same applies to the road bike handlebars. The material of choice in both cases is carbon because it can be adapted exactly to the requirements. Choosing the right saddle is very individual – companies like SQLab or Ergon offer good assistance, but other saddle manufacturers also offer different sizes and models for different body anatomies.
- Cassette & chainrings: Often the gear ratios of new bikes are adjusted to the average rider. However, if you want to ride a lot of hills or perhaps no hills at all, it is advisable to change the gear ratio of the drive. This can be done by changing the chainrings on the crank or, in most cases, the sprocket cassette on the rear wheel. The rule is: the larger the sprockets on the rear wheel (the more teeth), the easier it is to ride uphill. For a careful selection of gear options, there are various configurators such as gear-calculator.com.
- Wheels: The wheels of entry-level bikes are often kept very simple – mainly for cost reasons. Good wheels cost good money, even if they are not made of carbon. Criteria for choosing wheels are weight, stiffness and the choice of hubs (good bearings inside the hub are important for long runs). Starting at about 300 euros, you are in a good range here. However, there is almost no upper limit.
The professional models and their advantages
Professional bikes are available in all classes. There are top aero bikes as well as top endurance bikes. It’s always about combining the best carbon frame constructions with the best groupsets from various manufacturers. The performance is often not much better than on entry-level bikes – as is so often the case, it’s all about details and weight. Nevertheless, it has to be said that it is great fun to be on the road with “perfect” road bikes.
In summary, it can be said that entry-level aluminium road bikes with, for example, a Shimano 105 groupset are already extremely good road bikes. With a few upgrades, especially in the direction of comfort (handlebars, seat post, saddle), this is certainly the way to get the best price/performance ratio. My personal requirements are in the middle range. A Shimano Ultegra or SRAM Force groupset on a good carbon or aluminium frame is a wonderful combination for many great experiences on the bike.