Three days between Pfaffenwinkel and the Zugspitze region. I rode the Himmlisch Genießen cycling loops through Upper Bavaria’s pre-alpine country. The routes pass dozens of farm shops, beer gardens and cafés. These five stops are the ones that stayed with me.
What are the Himmlisch Genießen cycling loops?
Six pleasure-cycling loops between 50 and 90 kilometres, signposted with a little angel holding a pretzel. The routes string together cosy inns, remote farm cafés, beer gardens and small breweries. You can ride them as standalone day loops or combine them into a multi-day tour. Always with a Zugspitze view.
The routes were developed together by the Pfaffenwinkel Tourism Board and the Zugspitz Region. Both sites have the tracks ready for direct import. Handy: many start and end points sit right next to train stations, so you can plan the trip without a car.
My five favourite stops, sorted north to south. Combine them as a day tour between Lake Starnberg and the Ammergau Alps.
Stop 1: Bernrieder Hofladen at Lake Starnberg
The first stop sits right on Lake Starnberg. The Bernrieder Hofladen is tucked inside Schlossgut Bernried, in a vaulted-ceiling room. Even the entrance through the wrought-iron gate is a small moment.
Inside: handmade pasta (Starnberger See Wellen, Bernrieder Schneckerl), cheese from the farm, organic eggs, smoked fish from Bernried, plus chocolate, oils and liqueurs to bottle yourself. There’s also a small café with Dinzler coffee and Levini ice cream. Exactly the right thing before or after the ride.
Address: Tutzinger Straße 12d, 82347 Bernried am Starnberger See
Stop 2: Caros Gutscafé at Gut Dietlhofen
Heading further south, just before Weilheim, you’ll find Gut Dietlhofen. The estate belongs to the Peter Maffay Foundation, and yes, actual bison live on the property. But that’s not why this stop turned out to be my biggest discovery.
Caros Gutscafé is a small farm café with a terrace under trees, right by Dietlhofer See. The coffee is roasted in nearby Murnau. The cakes are homemade and rotate with the seasons. There’s also a farm shop with the estate’s own organic produce, bison meat, and raw-milk cheese from the Allgäu.
Important: open only Wednesday to Saturday, afternoons. Plan accordingly.
Address: Gut Dietlhofen 1, 82362 Weilheim
Stop 3: Klosterwirt Polling
Polling is a tiny village south of Weilheim. From the outside, the Klosterwirt looks unassuming, just another Bavarian inn. Then the food lands on the table and I briefly double-checked I was in the right restaurant.
The Klosterwirt is a Slow Food recommendation. The kitchen works regional, seasonal, creative. The vegetarian offer is outstanding. The beer garden at Kloster Polling has 100 seats and sits right on several cycling and hiking routes. Perfect for a longer stop, not just a quick beer.
Address: Weilheimer Straße 12, 82398 Polling
Stop 4: Seerestaurant Alpenblick at Lake Staffelsee
The beer garden at Seerestaurant Alpenblick sits right on the north shore of Lake Staffelsee. View: lake, the Staffelsee islands, the Alps behind. Hard to beat. The Seerestaurant has been family-run since 1979, and chef Michael Bott carries the Euro-Toques title. On the menu: fresh fish from Staffelsee, game from the surrounding forests, herbs from the kitchen garden.
You can pick between the self-service beer garden and a quieter, more refined area inside the restaurant. Both work, depending on how much time you have and how hungry you are. Highly recommended.
Address: Kirchtalstraße 30, 82449 Uffing am Staffelsee
Stop 5: Schönegger Käsealm
The southernmost stop, with the most honest climb leading up to it. Schönegger Käsealm sits between Rottenbuch and Wildsteig, deep in the rolling pre-alpine landscape. Hay milk from regional mountain farmers gets turned into cheese here. On Tuesdays and Thursdays you can watch them at work in the show dairy.
The beer garden serves proper Brotzeit. On Fridays between 11:00 and 15:00 they bring out fresh Käsespätzle, reservations required from ten people up. The view over the hills and the Ammergau Alps is grand. After the climb, every bite feels earned.
Address: Schönegg 6, 82401 Rottenbuch
How to plan the Himmlisch Genießen cycling loops
You’ll find all six routes at the Pfaffenwinkel Tourism Board and the Zugspitz Region. Both sites have Komoot tracks ready for direct import. The routes are signposted with the angel-and-pretzel symbol, so you can ride them even without a GPS.
My tip: ride one loop per day and combine three for a long weekend. That way you’ll have time to actually enjoy the stops. The routes work well on a gravel bike or road bike (heads up, not everything is paved).
Looking for more weekend rides from Munich? Two more Bavarian routes worth a weekend escape: our Weekender from Munich to the Tegernsee at the Blyb Hotel and the gravel weekender from Munich to the Wallerei at the Walchensee.
If you do ride the Himmlisch Genießen loops: save this post for your next Bavaria weekend. And let me know which stop was your favourite.
